Dining Dojo Editorial: Setsubun (Bean Throwing, Demons, and Lucky Direction Sushi Rolls)

Today in Japan, it is Setsubun or bean throwing day.  On February 3, people throughout Japan throw beans at demons and eat sushi in a certain direction in order to ensure luck in the new year.  Setsubun is traditionally celebrated on the day before beginning of spring is usually celebrated.  It is part of the Spring Festival (春祭り).  Setsubun came to Japan in the eight century from Japan.  It is closely associated with the Chinese custom called tsuina (追儺).

If you a go a Japanese supermarket in late January and early February, you can buy the special roasted soybeans called fukumame (副豆) and, also, special maki rolls called ehomaki (恵方巻）which loosely translates to lucky direction roll.

 This year's setsubun dinner!! 今年の節分の晩ご飯！！いただきます！！

The fukumame is used is a ceremony called mamemaki (豆撒き: bean throwing).  This practice started in the Muromachi period in Japan.  During this ceremony, people throw the fukumame at the oni (demon), a person wearing a demon mask, who comes to the house on this day.  When performing the mamemaki, people scream 鬼が外！福が内！(Demons out! Luck in!) in order to ensure good luck and fortune for the house in the new year.  Besides throwing the fukumame at the demon, people eat the fukumame in order to bring good luck and health to themselves.  People usually eat the the same number of beans as their age.  There is another tradition in Japan where people eat the same number of beans as the age plus one more bean in order to ensure luck in the new year.

The other traditional that is associated with setsubun is rather new.  Eating the ehomaki (恵方巻), the lucky direction roll, started in the Kansai region of Japan.  Recently, these sushi rolls can be found across Japan.  Ehomaki is a typically a type of futomaki (太巻き), a huge maki that is packed with various ingredients.  Also when eating the ehomaki, there is a certain direction in which a person should eat the roll in order to maximize their luck for the year.  The directions are based on the Chinese zodiac.  This year's lucky direction is south southeast (南南東).

 Here is a sign at my local supermarket telling people this year's lucky direction. 

Many of the culinary customs in Japan are tied to providing one with fortune, health, or good luck.  Food plays an important role in Japanese society and culture because its show how food is an integral part of culture and identity.  Furthermore, food and customs that are associated with eating and drinking provide a visual and sensual reminder of memories for people.  Throwing the fukumame at demons and eating ehomaki in certain direction are only two examples that illustrate the connection between history and food.  People tend to eat for two reasons: for subsistence and for celebration.